Persian & Afghan food: what to order
Persian cooking is about saffron, fresh herbs, slow stews and perfect rice; Afghan cooking shares much of it, with its own dumplings, breads and pilaf. Here are the dishes you will meet on menus in Vienna – and the pantry basics to buy at a Persian supermarket.
Iranian classics
Chelo kabab چلوکباب
The national dish: skewers of grilled meat – minced koobideh, saffron chicken joojeh or fillet barg – on a mound of buttery saffron rice with grilled tomato.
Ghormeh sabzi قورمه سبزی
A slow-cooked stew of fried herbs, kidney beans, dried lime and lamb or beef. Deep green, sour and fragrant – many Iranians call it their favourite.
Fesenjan فسنجان
Chicken or duck simmered in ground walnuts and pomegranate molasses until dark and glossy; sweet and sour at the same time.
Gheymeh قیمه
Yellow split peas, meat, tomato and dried lime, usually topped with crisp potato straws.
Tahdig ته دیگ
The golden crust from the bottom of the rice pot – rice, potato or bread – and the part everyone at the table fights over.
Zereshk polo زرشک پلو
Saffron rice scattered with tart barberries, almonds and pistachios, served with chicken.
Kashk-e bademjan کشک بادمجان
A warm dip of fried aubergine, whey (kashk), fried mint and onions, eaten with bread.
Mirza ghasemi میرزا قاسمی
Smoky grilled aubergine with garlic, tomato and egg – a speciality of Gilan by the Caspian Sea.
Ash reshteh آش رشته
A thick soup of herbs, beans and noodles finished with kashk, fried onion and mint; a Nowruz favourite.
Kuku sabzi کوکو سبزی
A herb frittata packed with parsley, coriander, dill and chives, often with walnuts and barberries.
Mast-o-khiar ماست و خیار
Cool yoghurt with cucumber, dried mint and sometimes raisins and rose petals – the classic side.
Saffron ice cream & sweets بستنی سنتی
Bastani with saffron, rose water and pistachios, faloodeh with lime, sholeh zard rice pudding and baklava.
Afghan favourites
Qabuli palaw قابلی پلو
Afghanistan’s national dish: rice cooked with lamb and stock, topped with sweet carrot strips and raisins.
Mantu منتو
Steamed dumplings filled with spiced minced meat and onion, topped with yoghurt and a lentil or tomato sauce.
Ashak آشک
Leek- or chive-filled dumplings with garlic yoghurt, meat sauce and dried mint.
Bolani بولانی
Thin stuffed flatbread – potato, leek or pumpkin – fried or baked until crisp and served with chutney and yoghurt.
Kabab & naan کباب و نان
Charcoal-grilled meat with fresh tandoor naan, raw onions and green chutney.
Firni & shir yakh فرنی و شیر یخ
Cardamom milk pudding with pistachios, and the hand-churned Afghan ice cream shir yakh.
The Persian pantry
Saffron زعفران
Grind a few threads with a pinch of sugar and steep in hot water before adding to rice or stews.
Barberries زرشک
Tiny, sour red berries for zereshk polo; fry them very briefly with a little butter and sugar.
Dried limes لیمو عمانی
Whole or ground, they give ghormeh sabzi and gheymeh their unmistakable sour depth.
Kashk کشک
Fermented whey, liquid or dried – essential for kashk-e bademjan and ash reshteh.
Pomegranate molasses رب انار
Thick sweet-sour syrup for fesenjan, salads and marinades.
Persian rice & bread برنج و نان
Long-grain rice for chelo, plus fresh sangak, lavash, barbari and Afghan tandoor naan.
Dried herbs سبزی خشک
Ready mixes for ghormeh sabzi, kuku and ash – a real time saver.
Tea & sweets چای و شیرینی
Persian black tea with cardamom, rock-sugar nabat, gaz, sohan and dried fruit.
Eating out the Persian way
Persian meals are made for sharing: order a few starters such as mast-o-khiar, kashk-e bademjan or mirza ghasemi with bread, then a kabab and a stew for the table, and ask for extra tahdig. Doogh (a minty yoghurt drink) goes with kababs, and a glass of cardamom tea ends the meal. Many restaurants in Vienna offer a good-value weekday lunch menu.